Uncorked Ontario

It’s easy to bash the LCBO. That big “C” word makes it easy. They control the wine industry in Ontario. They decide what wines are imported, and more importantly what Ontario wines get exposure. Like them or not they are not going anywhere soon. So is there anything good about them? Yes I say.
Our family vacation this summer took us to Florida. I discovered a few large wine stores down there. ABC Fine Wine and Spirits and another one called Total Wine and More which claims to be America’s Wine Superstore. Both have multi locations throughout Florida, Total Wine has locations in about 10 US States.
I visited both stores. ABC was quite limited in selection. While Total Wine was larger and had a bigger and better selection of wines most of them seemed to be what would appear on LCBO’s general list or Vintage Essentials.

Yes, the LCBO has a lot of power and control over what wines are available here in Ontario however they are doing a good job in bringing quite a bit of variety to the shelves with new and interesting wines appearing every two weeks in Vintage Releases. For example, I recently worked on a Republic Of Georgia wine presentation and needed some wines for a tasting. Both US wine stores not only didn’t have any wines from Georgia in stock, they believe they never have had any. The LCBO on the other hand has in the past year imported at least 6 wines from the Republic of Georgia.

The LCBO is exposing us to wines that we probably would never get a chance to taste if our wine distribution was like that in Florida and other US states.
Now if only the LCBO would do the same with Ontario wines. Yes, they are trying but they could do better. Sure each Vintage release has several Ontario wines; most are from Niagara, which is Ontario’s largest wine region. A few are from Price Edward County, Ontario’s newest wine region but it’s rare to find a Lake Erie North Shore or Pelee Island wine in the bi weekly Vintage releases. That needs to change.

The Ontario wine Vintage releases also seem to only make it to a few select stores, and rarely into a Southern Ontario Vintages LCBO. Every other week I scour the latest Vintages release magazine and there is usually an Ontario wine that catches my attention. Rarely is this wine available locally here in at any Essex County LCBO Vintages location. I have been told that it is because local wine drinkers buy local, In Essex County, they buy Pelee or Colio, in Niagara they buy Niagara wines. I am sure LCBO has done their market research and this may be true. But it would be nice to see Ontario Vintage released wines make it to Essex County so that they could be tried. One thing is for sure, if they are not stocked on the shelves, they won’t sell.

CAVE SPRING ESTATE CHENIN
BLANC 2007

VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula TASTING NOTE: Arguably the first really serious chenin blanc made in Ontario with classic Loire-like (Vouvray) quince, honey and minerality with surprising concentration. Very bright light clean appearance. Palate is mid-weight, taut, crisp, stony and mouth-watering with excellent length. Best now to 2011. Score: 89 (David Lawrason, wineaccess.ca, Undated) 627315 (D) 750 mL $16.95

DANIEL LENKO
UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula

TASTING NOTE: … this is a delicious unwooded white, with aromas of fine pear and lime. The flavours dish up pineapple, jasmine and lemongrass with a hint of peach … Did I forget to say the wine is absolutely yummy?… Food suggestion: Cheese raclette for two. Score: 90 (Gordon Stimmell, The Toronto Star, Sept. 25, 2009) 091173 (XD) 750 mL $20.15

HIDDEN BENCH ESTATE RIESLING 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula

TASTING NOTE: Here is an exciting white that speaks to the calibre of the 2008 vintage in Niagara and the emerging style of Hidden Bench Vineyards. Easily the most approachable of the recent crop of Hidden Bench Rieslings, this dry white reveals a fruity/honeyed flavour profile that finishes with an extremely crisp acidic finish. Less assertive than Hidden Bench’s house style, this manages to strike an agreeable balance between zesty citrus fruit, minerality and pervasive acidity. It sets the stage nicely for the forthcoming 2008 single vineyard and Old Vines Riesling bottlings to be released in 2010. Score: HHHHK (Christopher Waters, watersandwine.com, Aug. 28, 2009) 183491 (D) 750 mL $24.20

RED WINE

HENRY OF PELHAM RESERVE
PINOT NOIR 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula

Another exceptional wine from the great 2007 vintage, this reserve Pinot from Henry of Pelham shows classic, almost Burgundian aromas of cherry, beetroot, and raspberry, plus hints of clove and tobacco. This lovely, long-finishing wine is a good match for pork liver pâté, grilled tuna or salmon, and game bird.
268391 (D) 750 mL $24.95

WHITE WINE

INNISKILLIN WINEMAKER’S SERIES
TWO VINEYARDS RIESLING 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula

Enjoy this racy wonder with planked salmon or grilled prawns.
TASTING NOTE: Straw-lime colour with an aromatic bouquet of grapefruit and honey with a floral grace note. Light to medium-bodied, off-dry with a spicy (almost Gewurztraminer-like) flavour of grapefruit and tangerine. Good tension between sweetness and balancing acidity. Score: 89 (Tony Aspler, A Wine Lover’s Diary, April 20, 2010)
105387 (MD) 750 mL $17.95

ROSÉ WINE

TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA
ROSÉ 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula

TASTING NOTE: Produced from a blend of fairly equal quantities of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Merlot, this is a lovely rosé with ripe berry flavours and aromas – cherry and raspberry – along with underlying notes of mineral and graphite. It’s light-medium bodied with a crisp texture and a refreshing fruit-filled finish. Scrumptious on its own, pair with pizza or spicy Italian sausage. Score: HHHHJ (Susan Desjardins, WineCuurent.com May 1, 2010)
172643 (D) 750 mL $14.95

WHITE WINE

FIELDING ESTATE WINERY
UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula

TASTING NOTE: This is great unoaked Chardonnay: lots of pure fruit character, minerality, and fine balance. Abounds with attractive ripe apple, pear, citrus and stony mineral notes on the nose. Crisp and mediumfull bodied, with a seam of acidity keeping the fruit in elegant harmony all the way through on the long, lip-smacking finish. Savour with lightly buttered lobster, or apple-lacquered pork kebabs with apricots. (VINTAGES panel, April 2010)
164491 (D) 750 mL $15.95

HENRY OF PELHAM RESERVE OFF-DRY
RIESLING 2008
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula

TASTING NOTE: Letting the grapes hang on the vine adds to the sweetness of this beguiling riesling. But there’s a fine natural acidity to balance the sugars. Aromas and flavours show jasmine, ginger, apple and peaches elements. Pretty stuff. Score: 89+ (Gordon Stimmell, The Toronto Star, March 13, 2010)
557165 (MD) 750 mL $15.95

INNISKILLIN WINEMAKER’S SERIES
THREE VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula

Rick VanSickle in The Standard (St. Catharines) gave this wine a rating of HHHHK.
TASTING NOTE: Straw coloured with a green tint. A nose of apple and vanilla oak with hint of forest floor. Medium-bodied, Burgundian-style, dry, apple peach and pineapple flavours nicely dressed in spicy oak; lovely mouth feel and lingering flavours. Score: 90 (Tony Aspler, tonyaspler.com, A Wine Lover’s Diary, April 20, 2010)
105379 (XD) 750 mL $16.95

REIF ESTATE
CHENIN BLANC 2008
VQA Niagara River

Chenin Blanc is a little-known and often underappreciated grape variety. It’s best known as the great white grape of France’s Loire Valley. At Reif, the grapes underwent cold-controlled slow fermentation in stainless steel tanks to highlight the grape’s innate fruit characteristics and to maintain its excellent acidity.
TASTING NOTE: Another unusual offering from Reif. A nose of melon and tropical fruit. It’s juicy and vibrant on the palate showing an array of ripe fruits in a completely dry style. Think delicate white fish to go with this wonderful wine. Score: HHHHK (Rick VanSickle, stcatharinesstandard.ca, Undated)
172411 (D) 750 mL $18.95

STRATUS RIESLING 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula

TASTING NOTE: A refined Riesling with pretty aromas of grapefruit and peach in harmony. The laser sharp acidity of the vintage hits the palate with a juicy, mouth-watering citrus blast. This wine will improve with time in the cellar. (Rick VanSickle, stcatharinesstandard.ca, Undated)
131011 (D) 750 mL $29.20

RED WINE

HENRY OF PELHAM
CABERNET FRANC ICEWINE 2008
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula

Fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks, this rich and expressive Icewine is full of strawberry and red cherry aromas and flavours. The producer suggests matching this wine with fruit-based desserts. Also makes a lovely sipper, nicely chilled.
672402 (S) 200 mL $39.95

WHITE WINES

PENINSULA RIDGE INOX RESERVE
CHARDONNAY 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench, Beal Vineyards

 TASTING NOTE: Spiced Granny Smith apple and yellow plum aromas provide segue to this valuedriven gem – always expect it to be under priced and to over deliver in character and flavour – it earned its final half star on value. Winemaker J. P.Colas hails from Chablis as this unwooded crisp and clean Chardonnay testifies … Sip on its own or pair with lighter appetizers … Score: HHHHJ (Vic Harradine, May 23, 2009)
007328 (D) 750 mL $18.95

ROSEWOOD ESTATES
NATALIE’S SÜSSRESERVE
RIESLING 2008
VQA Creek Shores, Niagara Peninsula

TASTING NOTE: Aromas suggest smoky peach, lime, mineral, McIntosh apple and nectarine. It starts out off-dry and then dries out nicely due to the brisk acidity. Medium bodied with a tangy/fruity finish. Almost Rheingau or Pfalz Kabinett in style. Try it with sushi or shrimp and sweet potato tempura. (VINTAGES panel, March 2010)
164483 (D) 750 mL $18.00

 RED WINES

JACKSON-TRIGGS PROPRIETORS’
GRAND RESERVE MERLOT 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula

David Lawrason gave this “very stylish merlot” a score of 90.
TASTING NOTE: Deep ruby coloured, impressively scented Merlot from the excellent 2007 vintage. Aromas of sour cherry, vanilla, raspberry, coffee bean are all on display here. Dry with a nice core of fruit surrounded by moderate tannins and pleasing acidity. Medium-full bodied with a lingering, refined finish. Age it 2-3 years, or try it tonight with a grilled porterhouse steak or calf’s liver with bacon and onions. (VINTAGES panel, March 2010)
563197 (XD) 750 mL $19.95

VINELAND STATES
ELEVATION CABERNET 2007

VQA Niagara Escarpment This blend of 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon showcases aromas and flavours of blackberries, dark plum and hints of green pepper. Try this fruity wine from from the great 2007 vintage with grilled lamb.
173609 (D) 750 mL $25.00

VINELAND ESTATES MERLOT 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula

TASTING NOTE: Sour cherry, plum, mocha and woodsmoke dominate this Merlot from the fine 2007 vintage. Dry and fruity with gentle acids offering support. Ready to drink tonight with grilled steaks or bison burgers. (VINTAGES panel,March 2010)
657361 (XD) 750 mL $16.95

Some interesting Ontario wines will be available in the LCBO Vintages section on May 1st.

BLACK PRINCE WINERY
RIESLING 2008
VQA Prince Edward County

A bracingly fresh Riesling with aromas of pear, lime and mineral. Dry, racy and crisp, this is an excellent palate-refresher between courses especially in an alfresco setting. It will be even better with 2-4 years in a cellar.
164236 (XD) 750 mL $18.95

CLOSSON CHASE CHARDONNAY 2007
VQA Prince Edward County,
Closson Chase Vineyard, Unfiltered

TASTING NOTE: If you ever need proof that Closson Chase’s winemaker, Deborah Paskus, is brilliant, then try this Chardonnay. Medium bright yellow. The nose is filled with baked apple, pineapple, fresh-baked bread and yellow plum. Perfectly balanced, this is a classic wine from a great vintage. Medium-full bodied with a medium-long finish, this wine will evolve and improve in a cellar (3-5+ years), or would make a delicious match now for grilled rosemary chicken with a shiitake mushroom sauce. (VINTAGES panel, March 2010)
148866 (D) 750 mL $29.95

ROSEHALL RUN VINEYARDS
CHARDONNAY 2006
VQA Ontario

TASTING NOTE: Fine Chardonnay with aromas of tropical fruit, coconut, butter, lemon zest and mineral. Dry, fruity, fresh and nicely textured overall. Ripe and round, pleasurable wine for grilled salmon or chicken in a light cream sauce. (VINTAGES panel, March 2010)
173203 (XD) 750 mL $15.95

VINELAND ESTATES
ELEVATION CHARDONNAY 2007
VQA Niagara Escarpment

A Gold Medal winner at the 2009 Cuvée Awards.

TASTING NOTE: This is a deeply impressive Chardonnay; one that is, surprisingly, unoaked. Surprising because there is a gentle toastiness to the wine that could easily be mistaken for oak ageing. In fact, this attractive quality is from lees contact. The aromas recall binned apple, mineral, grapefruit peel and that leesy toastiness. Dry, fruity, crisp and impeccably made – think fine Chablis. Medium-full bodied with a long finish. Enjoy it with grilled herbed chicken or pork roast. (VINTAGES panel, March 2010)
164459 (D) 750 mL $24.95

RED WINE

HENRY OF PELHAM GAMAY 2008
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula

Gamay Noir is a somewhat under-appreciated grape variety, which is a shame because it grows really well in Ontario and makes for tasty, fruitpacked and food-friendly reds. The 2008 vintage in Niagara was cooler than the blockbuster 2007, but Henry of Pelham’s winemaker Ron Giesbrecht still crafted a Gamay with more stuffing than many of its lighter Beaujolais counterparts. Look for plush black cherry, flint and woodsmoke as well as a mellow earthiness. Dry, crisp and medium bodied, it makes a terrific match for vegetarian lasagna or veal chops.
291112 (D) 750 mL $14.95

TRUMPOUR’S MILL
CABERNET FRANC 2007
VQA Prince Edward County
(The Grange of Prince Edward Vineyards & Estate Winery)

TASTING NOTE: The 2007 vintage is going down in Ontario wine history as one of our best, and this fine Cabernet Franc provides a window into why. Raspberry pie, smoke, vanilla and bell pepper aromas dominate the nose. On the palate, the aromas replay nicely, with a fine overlay of cedar. Spicy fruit tones emerge on the mid-palate with well-typed tannins giving structure. Age it 2-3 years, or try it tonight with grilled lamb chops. (VINTAGES panel, March 2010)
173187 (D) 750 mL $17.95

ROSÉ WINE

CATTAIL CREEK SERENDIPITY
ROSÉ 2009
VQA Four Mile Creek

This wine is created by blending 35% Gamay Noir, 35% Pinot Noir and 30% Merlot. Each of the grape varieties were cropped at incredibly low levels and underwent aggressive leaf plucking throughout the growing season. The Pinot Noir was harvest on October 21, 2009 while the Gamay Noir was harvested on November 2, 2009 and the Merlot was harvested on November 13, 2009. Each grape was harvested much later than normal thereby taking full advantage of the ripening that occurred during the wonderfully warm and dry weather in September, October and November.

This drier style rosé wine exhibits a fruit salad of summer flavours with berry salad, Damson plums, cherry drops and cranberries with a bouquet of floral notes and just a touch of spice on the finish. An incredibly versatile wine, it is perfect sipping on its own but also goes will with crisp salads, charcouterie plates, roasted turkey with cranberry sauce, delicate white fish and BBQed meats. Drink now. Serve chilled.

118059 (D) 750 mL $14.20
 

ICE WINE

KING’S COURT
CABERNET FRANC ICEWINE 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula

The Zimmerman family has been involved in winemaking in Germany’s Nahe region for seven generations. As Icewine specialists, they were interested in Ontario. In 1990, the youngest descendant, Josef Zimmerman, moved to Niagara and founded King’s Court. Since its first vintage in 2001, the winery has earned a reputation for making top-notch Icewines. This lively, strawberry scented Cab Franc is a fine example of the quality of wines they are capable of creating.
033274 (S) 375 mL $38.95